Phong Nha: a spelunking good time

Four and a half hours up from Hue is tiny Phong Nha. The worlds most enthusiastic bus host spent the ride laughing at his own jokes and I spent the ride death staring the woman in front of me who thought it was appropriate to recline her seat even though the bus would’ve been a squeeze for a family of borrowers. We did however get to see the exact point where South Vietnam becomes North Vietnam- they’ve helpfully painted the bridge in 2 different colours to differentiate the two sides. We’d come to Phong Nha for the sole purpose of spelunking, so here’s what we

got up to...

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, the National Park contains the oldest karst mountains in Asia, formed approximately 400 million years ago. And to be fair, it does look like it’s just popped out of the set for Jurassic Park.

The National Park was part of our day trip to see the famous caves in the area, though I can imagine that if you have loads of time to spare it’d be good for a day in itself. Our day started rather sombrely stood in front of a pile of bomb shells whilst our guide told us the extent to which the area had been bombed due to its proximity to the Hai Van Pass- North Vietnam’s route across Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam to transport food and equipment south. He told us that the bombs hadn’t exploded due to them being made for dropping on concrete European towns and cities but landing on soft jungle floors meant that they hadn’t detonated. As a result locals would be killed or injured weekly after the war by accidentally triggering them. Once that stark bit of history/the very real present was addressed, we set off to chase a waterfall. Thác Gio waterfall is modestly sized but picture perfectly set in amongst vines and trees, like something right out of The Jungle Book. The route up and down is pretty easy and the views across the limestone karsts in the distance are amazing.

Paradise Cave

Now, when someone said the cave was ‘big’, I didn’t realise it was going to be absolutely jaw-droppingly HUGE. After we’d sprinted our way up the rock (cheers for that pace you crazy Americans. See THIS is why I don’t like tours!) We made our way into the cave through a smallish crack in the limestone karst. The small size of the mouth of the cave is misleading, because as you walk further in the cave opens up monumentally. Paradise Cave is so named because of its status as the most beautiful cave in the area, and we’re not about to disagree. It’s impossible to describe the actual size of this place and the photos don’t do it justice, so you’ll just have to go and see for yourself, but I can tell you it’s 31km long. Thirty. One. As a regular visitor you can only explore the first kilometre (which is still insanely massive), but you can also book tours to explore 7km through the cave if you’ve got a bit of dollah on you (unlike us money tight backpackers). The wooden staircases descend into a cathedral-like space with colossal stalagmites and glimmering stalactites everywhere you look. Spelunking success.

Phong Nha Cave

A trip to Phong Nha cave begins with a boat ride past buffalo, limestone peaks and church steeples to the cave’s gaping mouth. When the boat reaches the mouth of the cave the engine is cut and the boatman carefully (and exhaustingly by the looks for it!) negotiates you through cavern after cavern past amazing stalactites and stalagmites. It’s like being swallowed by an enormous monster and floating around inside their belly- In fact, I imagine it’s how Jonah felt when he was swallowed by the whale.

In 1992 an expedition to explore the cave revealed 7,729 metres of cave with a maximum height of 50m and a maximum depth of 83m, making it the longest river cave in the world. The cave is so monumental that it was actually used as a hospital and ammunition depot during the War and as a result was heavily bombed.

On the way back to the mouth of the cave you can actually get out of the boat and explore some of the cave on foot before hopping back into the boat to return up river. Spelunking success number 2.

Sleep: BFF Homestay- I cannot recommend these guys highly enough. For about £2.33 each a night we had a room with a balcony, hot water, air con and breakfast overlooking the limestone karsts, fishermen along the river and the buffalos in the fields. When it absolutely hammered it down (and I mean HAMMERED) the night we left they came out in the downpour to help us out. They also booked our cave tour and our bus for us and the bikes and mopeds were free to use. Such good eggs.

Eat:

Veggie Box- could a vegetarian find a better named place? Does what it says on the tin.

Underground- we ate here 3 times. We were only there 3 days. Enough said.

Bamboo Cafe- lovely little spot for a cuppa, and they do amazing brownies. Also trying to be really eco-conscious which we love.

The Coffee Station- I don’t like coffee, but I’m told by a knowledgeable source that the coffee is banging here.

Drink: we were too busy spelunking for any of this, but a walk up and down the short main road will easily get you a cheap cold beer.

Special shout out: This one goes to Magic Fingers, a local acupuncture and acupressure wizard. I’d badly hurt my back (probably due to hours on a moped with a heavy rucksack on) and the muscles had seized up to protect it, leaving me looking like a 114 year old who’d pooed themselves when I walked. Ibuprofen, ice and heat were getting me nowhere, but an hour at this place and, though the nerves are still damaged and very sore, I can actually walk like an average human again. Praise be the Magic Wizard.

Cheers for the spelunking adventures Phong Nha, next stop: Tam Coc