Cat Ba: Ha Long’s Bae

A four and a half hour bus journey (including a ferry crossing) and we’d made it across to Cat Ba island. Our crew of 3 became a team of 4 as my dad joined us for a week of island life. I went from riding on the back of my dad’s motorbike in our garden in England when I was small, to riding a motorbike in front of him in Vietnam. We also taught him cards against humanity. A successful week. Here’s what we got up to...

Hospital Cave

By now, you’ll know we can’t resist a bit of spelunking, and we did our fair share of it here in Cat Ba. This cleverly concealed cave served as both a secret bomb-proof hospital and as a safe house for Viet Cong leaders during the war. Built between 1963 and 1965, the cave was in constant use until 1975. It has 3 levels and 17 rooms with ventilation shafts and fresh water access. They even had a quick escape route from the upper levels straight to the bottom level, as well as a second entrance for a quick escape if the cave was ever invaded. It’s reachable by moped and a cool little stop to see a part of the islands history.

Trung Trang Cave

In this spelunking adventure, (how many times will I use the word ‘spelunking’ in these blogs?) you can make your way from one side of the cave to the other, but be prepared to crouch as there’s some super low sections. There’s lots of stalactites glittering in the dim light too, which is pretty cool.

Cat Ba National Park

The National Park is accessed on the same ticket as Trung Tran cave, and they’re pretty close together so it makes sense to do these 2 in the same day. We visited the National Park in search of Ngu Lam Peak. The climb starts off pretty easy with steps and some flat parts, but by the end it’s a bit of a scramble up the rocks. It’s worth it though as you’re rewarded with vast views over the green-clad limestone karsts looking like an undiscovered world. On a clear day you can see all the way out to the ocean. Congrats Cat Ba, your views are banging.

Beaches

Cat Ba has 3 main beaches- Cat Co 1, 2 and 3. However, when we were there (December 2019), Cat Co 2 was closed due to a huge construction project. Cat Co 1 remains open, but I’d give it a swerve because the construction is going on right behind it. Luckily, there are 2 pretty good alternatives...

Cat Co 3

This little cove can be reached via the coastal walkway from Cat Co 1, it’s an easy and pretty scenic route to and from the beach- especially if you’re leaving as the sun’s going down. The cove is a little sun trap and stays warm until around 4:30pm, and the water is beautifully calm. You can rent sun beds from the hotel for 100,000 VND per day.

Tung Thu

We found this little spot of peace and calm whilst on the bikes on the way to visiting the caves. It’s a quiet little bay with barely anyone on it, and a lovely spot to chill for the afternoon. The sun beds are free but also look pretty uncomfortable being just wood/metal and there’s one small food vendor off to the left.

Lan Ha Bay

Let’s be honest, this is what we’re really all here for isn’t it. The limestone karsts standing sporadically in the ocean are the main event here. Lots of people stay in Ha Long City to do this trip, but we heard it’s not great there so opted to stay in Cat Ba instead- and we can vouch that it’s delightful. A few different companies offer Lan Ha Bay/Ha Long Bay tours, though some are licensed and others are not. They also offer differing levels of luxury for differing prices. We went with Green Trail Adventures which are licensed and also cheap.

The first activity of the day was kayaking around Lan Ha Bay- the water’s calm and the views are amazing. We even got to see the rare Cat Ba Langurs by being the last of our group out of a little lagoon and staying completely silent which was super exciting. We spent the rest of the day lounging in the sun on the top of the boat, launching ourselves into the freezing water, and climbing the peak on monkey island. It’s a must-do day trip if you’re heading to Cat Ba or Ha Long.

Sleep: Cat Ba Family Hotel- well placed in walking distance to the Cat Co beaches, food and a banging sunset. Breakfast included in the price, mopeds available to rent and their washing smells amazing!

Eat:

Napoli- amazing pizza

The Secret Garden- this was such a good little find. We spent several evenings in here playing their free games (introduced dad to Cards Against Humanity), plus the food is super tasty with loads of veggie options. They have live music 3 times a week and a fire pit.

Little Leaf- for cheap veggie options

Casa Bonita- tasty food with lots of veggie options

Like Coffee- great for breakfast

Drink:

Mona- for dreamy sunset views over the bay with a beer in hand

Big Man- these guys do beer, rum and lime cocktails and you can then add your own flavour, I can strongly vouch for the raspberry. And for over a pint it’s less than £2. Winner.

We’ve enjoyed a chilled week as a team of 4 living island life, next stop: The chilly mountains of Sapa.