New Zealand North Island: Hi, meet Large Marge...

New Year, new country! Kia Ora New Zealand! We flew into Auckland from Manila, and what a culture shock that was. After nearly 6 months in Asia we stepped out into the freshest air which wasn’t sticky with heat, we could read the street signs, drink the water, and there wasn’t 26273 mopeds about to run us down.

Before leaving England, we compared the cost of hostels and transport vs having our own van, and the price difference was monumental. As a result, our New Zealand adventure is all being done in a camper van. We spoke to Sammy at RatPack travel, and genuinely couldn’t find a cheaper deal anywhere. We were sceptical about how much room we’d have with 3 of us in the van... would it be too cramped? Uncomfortable? Difficult to cook? But 3 weeks in, it’s the absolute dream. I love the freedom of being able to go wherever we want. I love being outside all the time. I love cooking for ourselves. And I love how simple life is living out of our van. I’m so attached to Large Marge already. Yes, that’s what we named her.

In another bid to live cheaply, we’ve downloaded the Rankers and Campermate apps, and they’re a complete must-have. They show you freedom camping spots (which are free), paid campsites (where you can cook, shower, recharge electricity, dump waste, and refill water tanks) and free showers. We live by them.

We’re also shopping at Pak’n’Save and cooking everything ourselves, which is genuinely lovely after 6 months in SE Asia. We only ate out once on the North Island, and that was a Subway the night we landed.

After that information dump, here’s what we got up to in the North Island...

Bay of islands

Our first stop of the North Island, we drove up from Auckland airport after picking up the van ready to begin our adventures...

Carino Dolphin Watching:

This little company is run by a group of very lovely and knowledgeable women. We did an all day cruise around the Bay Of Islands looking for dolphins with them. Unfortunately on the day we went the dolphins weren’t playing ball, but I’m ok with that, I’d rather they be living their wild lives and us not see them, than seeing them in a way that isn’t great for them. Despite the lack of dolphins (though we did see a couple of penguins!) it was the loveliest start to our NZ adventure. We spent the whole day outside lounging on the ‘trampolines’ at the front of the boat and gawping at just how beautiful the scenery is. The ladies knew lots about the history of the islands here which was really interesting. We had the opportunity to swim and walk to a couple of view points on one of the islands, which were stunning. Dolphins or no dolphins, I’d highly recommend.

Freedom camp: Two Ponga Park- Tiny little freedom camping spot about half an hour from Paihia, lovely and quiet with good toilets and clean water.

Auckland

We’re lucky enough to have friends in Auckland, and it was lovely (if a little bizarre) to catch up with them so far from home. Here’s what Auckland had in store for us...

Sky Tower

An icon of Auckland’s skyline, the Sky Tower offers 360* views across Auckland up to 80km in every direction. I’m never sure about things like this- is it a lot of money for a viewing tower? But we were all pleasantly surprised and really enjoyed our time up there spotting the other landmarks in Auckland that we’d been to or we’re heading to later. You can watch people do the ‘Sky Jump’- I could barely work up the courage to walk over the glass floor, so this wasn’t for me.

One Tree Hill

Local buses in Auckland are brilliant. Clean, on time, cheap, easy to navigate. So we used them a lot during our few days here. One Tree Hill is on one of the bus routes and offers a nice little hike up a hill, views across Auckland, and some monumental winds.

Mount Eden

Another mound easily accessible by bus, with another little hike up a hill and amazing views over Auckland. Who knew cities could be THIS pretty?!

Auckland CBD

We left Large Marge at Parnell train station for the day and got on the train to ride one stop into Auckland CBD. We spent the day mooching the wharfs, browsing the shops at Queen Street, and paddling in the water. It’s not too busy, there’s not loads of traffic, it’s clean, the people are friendly. London, you’ve got a lot of work to do.

Paid Campsite: Orewa Beach Holiday Park- Lovely spot by the beach, good hot untimed showers, nice big kitchen, electric sites. All you need basically.

Rotorua

We drove down from Auckland stopping at the Waitomo Glowworm Caves on the way, which was a lovely little break. The caves are still run by the family of the Maori Chief who first discovered the caves which is pretty cool. You get a tour of the caves and then silently hop into a boat to see the glowworms from the water. 10,000 of them live on the ceiling of the cave, like little blue cave stars, I found them mesmerising.

Wai-O-Tapu Geothermal Wonderland

Are you ready for the intense smell of egg? Good, then we’ll begin. Wai-O-Tapu is part of an 18-sq. km active geothermal park at the edge of a collapsed volcanic crater formed 230,000 years ago within the Taupo Volcanic Zone. You can choose one of 3 walks, between 45 and 90 minutes past the Champagne Pools with their bubbling water, steaming ground and volcanic craters. Arrive before 10.15am and you’ll get to see the Lady Knox geyser erupt too. It’s a pretty other-worldly experience and cool that it’s all natural too. Nature is mad.

Whakarewarewa Living Maori Village

Tewhakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao (go on, say it out loud) is the legacy and home of the Tūhourangi Ngāti Wāhiao people, who have been sharing their unique way of life with visitors from all around the world for over two hundred years. One of the many villagers showed us round, giving us a little insight into how her extended Maori family cook, bath, and solve disputes. Undoubtedly our favourite part was watching the traditional songs and dances, including the haka. I mean, I wouldn’t challenge them in battle.

Redwoods

We loved spending the afternoon here. With over 5600 hectares of forest waiting to be explored, there’s lots of routes to choose, each with varying lengths. The trees are absolutely giant and the walk through the forest is a lovely spot of calm. Plus, it’s free. Winner winner.

Kaituna White Water River Rafting

50 minutes of fun down 14 rapids and the worlds highest commercially rafted waterfall- a good spot for adrenaline junkies, we had tonnes of fun on the river. The Kaituna river runs along a sunny jungle canyon, the guys that run this joint are tonnes of fun, and their employee of the month is Kevin the female goat. What’s not to like?

Freedom camp: Sudima lake- The freedom camping spots in this area fill up quickly, but this car park acts as an overflow (as long as you don’t mind the smell of egg from the geothermal activity nearby), and the bonus is you can use the nice hotel toilets. Very posh.

Taupo

A short drive down from Rotorua (and a quick stop for some white water rafting- see above) we stopped at Taupo famed for its huge lake. Here’s what we got up to...

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

I love a good trek, and this is one of my absolute favourites. I lost count of how many times I gawped at the view saying “Look at that, that’s insaaaaane!” It’s equally beautiful and other worldly and a good challenge without being impossible to cover in a day. If you’re in Taupo and like walking (sorry ‘tramping’, we are in NZ after all), then this is an absolute must.

The route is a straight crossing and doesn’t loop back round, and the car parks at the beginning and end of the route are limited to 4 hours (and there’s no chance you’re walking this beast in that time), so the best option is to use a shuttle. We used Tongariro Transport Hub, which let us park unlimited at Ketetahi, they then drove us to the other end of the crossing where we began our walk at Mangatepopo. 7 hours later we arrived back where we parked the van. It was a really easy way of doing it, and nice to just hop in the van when we were done rather than having to faff with getting back to it when we couldn’t feel our knees or feet.

We were very lucky and had beautiful weather when we walked, but even in the best conditions it’s jolly cold at the top thanks to the wind, so you definitely need to take warm layers, but on a sunny day you just need shorts and top for the rest of the walk. Food and sturdy walking shoes are a must- 7 hours (half of which is a slog uphill) makes you darn hungry, and a lot of the ground is unstable, prepare to ski the scree on the way down!

Lake Taupo

An obvious must if you’re in Taupo. We were lucky enough to find a freedom camping spot right on the lake (see below), so we had a plod round in the morning, the more brave of us had a swim (it’s darn cold), and others had brought out their paddle boards. The views across to Mount Doom are impressive and the lake is super picturesque. Very nice Taupo, very nice indeed.

Huka Falls

The natural colours of this country continue to amaze me. It’s a country that makes filters or retouches redundant. The waters at Huka Falls are SO blue. The water gushing out at the falls looks insanely powerful, in fact, it could fill an Olympic swimming pool in just 11 seconds.

Paid Campsite: Great Lake Taupo Holiday Park- a nice spot near the lake (though you can’t see it from here), good kitchen, showers only tepid and only for 5 minutes, which is an issue when you’re trying to wash hair as thick as mine.

Freedom Camp: Five Mile Bay Recreation Reserve- My favourite spot yet. Right on Lake Taupo with gorgeous views out to Mount Doom. Lots of people freedom camp here, but the vibe is peaceful, friendly and very chilled. You can even get in the lake for a swim. Comes with toilets on site and outstanding stars at night.

Wellington

The capital city was our final stop of the North Island. And what a capital it is. I can’t get over how green the cities are here, or how blue and clean the water is. Or how chilled they are. Delightful.

Mount Victoria Lookout

On a good bus route, Mount Victoria offers amazing views out over Wellington. What a gorgeously green capital city. Remind me why I live in England again? From here there’s a lovely little walk through a forested area down into the city itself with views across the beaches and fresh alpine air.

Ta Papa Tongarewa National Museum

Now, I’m like a child and can easily get bored in museums, but this one was a banger. Firstly, it’s free. FREE. And super interactive. Both me and the children in there had a lovely time. There’s exhibits about NZ’s wildlife (did you know 50% of their wildlife is ONLY found in NZ? Or that 90% of all whale and dolphin species are found here?), one dedicated to Maori culture, one about NZ’s involvement in the war, a section about earthquakes, volcanoes and geothermal activity. You name it, they had it. This is one museum I’m willing to recommend.

The Wharf

Lovely chilled spots for food and drink along here, good vibes, good views, and good live music. Take a walk and choose your spot.

Bluebridge Interisland Ferry

Almost an experience in itself thanks to the amazing views throughout pretty much the entire 3.5 hour journey. By George it’s windy though. Wear Lycra. Food and drink all available on board, there’s even a free cinema if you don’t want to look at the dreamy views (what’s wrong with you?) Seamlessly transported us from the North island to the South. Ta very much.

Freedom Camp: Paremata Ngatitoa Domain- Trying to freedom camp in the city is hard, you have to rock up early, but after a day of travelling that wasn’t going to happen. This is a good second option only 20 minutes out of the city along a river in a park with a toilet block.

Freedom Camp: Evans Bay Marina- Great spot for exploring the city as it’s close to bus routes, close to outdoor showers, has its own toilet block, and only 20 minutes from the ferry. Views over the marina weren’t too shabby either.

And just like that our time in the North Island is over. People keep telling us that the North Island is nothing compared to the South, but we find that so hard to believe because the North island really is stunning. Like mind bogglingly stunning. I’ve completely fallen in love with the North Island- going South feels like cheating. Let’s see if it’s worth it...