Chiang Rai: Much more than just Chiang Mai’s little sister.

Our journey to Chiang Rai was an all-day, multi-transport activity: minibus-aeroplane-bus-songthaew-bus-songthaew. More than once we said ‘I hope Chiang Rai’s worth it’, and it absolutely was. We had 2 days exploring in the glorious sunshine on the back of a moped and loved cruising past rice paddies and palms.

Day 1: Wat Rong Suea Ten, Huay Pla Kang, Mae Fah Luang Botnanical Gardens, and Baan Dam

Wat Rong Suea Ten

Also known as ‘The Blue Temple’, this temple is relatively new, only completed in 2016, and it’s so pretty (and free!). We were impressed with the dark blue walls with ornate gold trimmings and the white standing Buddha on the exterior, but it was even more impressive inside with a giant white Buddha surrounded by beautifully painted walls. Dreamy colours, excellent interior design inspo- expect to see similar vibes on our living room walls (if we ever settle down...)

Huay Pla Kang

We could see Huay Pla Kang from the back of the moped way before we approached. Often mistaken for ‘The Giant Buddha’ she’s actually the Goddess of Mercy (Yaaas Qweeen, you go girl!) sat serenely on a hill in the sunshine, and (in the politest of ways) she’s huge. We got the lift up the 26 floors to where you could look out of the eyes of the goddess to the surrounding countryside. Next to the goddess is a white hall with beautiful sculptures on the outside. As we tried to go in a lady stopped us to give us free food (Ryan was thrilled despite having breakfast approximately 5 minutes ago) and to explain that they look after 1000 orphans here- of which she had once been one. In the same area was a nine tiered pagoda (the lady kindly said she’d take us to hospital if we couldn’t make the 9 flights of stairs without passing out- cheers love). Each tier had beautiful carvings of Buddha in the centre. So although we’d originally only arrived for the goddess of mercy we ended up with 2 bonus additions too!

Mae Fah Luang Botnanical Gardens

Next stop was the university botanical gardens- beautiful and quiet (except for the super high pitched noisy bugs), a lovely spot to stroll in the greenery and sweat your rear ends off.

Baan Dam

Last stop of the day was Baan Dam, ‘the black house’ and boy was it weird. The ‘unique’ (read in to that what you will) creation of Thai artist Thawan Duchanee, it’s a collection of around 40 buildings dotted around a peaceful garden. In those buildings however are a bizarre collection of objects: crocodile skins, animal bones, antlers, snakeskins, and so many penis carvings. It’s definitely interesting, the buildings are impressive, and I’m sure the guy was on acid when he created this place.

Honourable mentions:

>Give Green farmhouse restaurant- the loveliest family run restaurant nestled in amongst the greenery where they grow their food on site, recommend dishes based on your specific tastes, and let you cuddle their pig. Yes you read that correctly.

>Night market- stalls with a bit of everything, cheap street food and live music- what’s there not to like?

>Waterside bar: sunset views, big beers and a tiny kitten to cuddle

Day 2: Wat Rong Khun, Khun Korn Waterfall, and Singha Park

Wat Rong Khun

Also known as ‘the white temple’ and probably the most famous building in Chiang Rai, we’d read that getting here early was the best way to avoid the crowds. Bizarre enough to question whether this Thai artist was friends with the guy who designed Baan Dam, there were hands reaching up either side of a bridge with skulls on. Even more bizarrely, inside sat a buddha (standard) but he was surrounded by paintings of the likes of Darth Vader, Harry Potter and Elvis. The waterfalls outside had sculptures of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and that weird thing from alien. Despite the weird additions, the white temple itself is beautiful, pieces of glass laid into the ornate white building twinkling in the sun.

Khun Korn Waterfall

The most beautiful of moped drives brought us up to this waterfall: Bright green rice paddies, bright blues skies and empty roads lined with banana trees. The hike up to the waterfall itself is 1400m through peaceful jungle, huge bamboo fallen to create natural tunnels, and bugs as loud as pneumatic drills. And the best bit- not a single person. The waterfall itself was giant, a gush so powerful you could feel the wind coming off of it and ended up soaked standing metres away. At the bottom the sun sparkling through the mist coming off of it forms a rainbow. Apparently you can swim here, but I had a paddle and it was so cold! Ryan didn’t get in- probably scarred from his previous fish experience at Erawan. Also, shout out to the local guy who couldn’t speak a word of English but rescued us when the back wheel on our moped decided to pop, faith in humanity restored.

Singha Park

Apparently not many western tourists come here, but they’re missing out on the most peaceful bike ride through tea plantations with views of Jurassic Park style tree covered hills and still lakes glittering in the sunshine. Having said that they’re also missing out on a lot of sweat if you go on a scorcher of a day like we did. And some sterling cover work for when they release their first album- see below.

Honourable mention:

>Saturday night walking street market- clearly the Place To Be on a Saturday evening if you live in Chiang Rai- stalls selling anything you can thing of, more street food than you can shake a stick at, live music and some form of line dancing. Saturday evening sorted.