Boracay, Panglao (Bohol) and Siquijor: Parasites and Paradise

These were the final 3 islands of our Filipino adventure. They involved welcoming in the New Year on the beach, 2 parasites that decided to take up residence in my small intestine, a trip to a Filipino hospital, the aftermath of a typhoon, and swimming with sea turtles. It was a rollercoaster ride of the good, the bad, and the ugly. Here’s what we got up to...

Boracay:

We flew from Cebu to Kalibo and then arranged the bus, boat and van at the airport to take us the rest of the way to Boracay island.

White Beach

I don’t think I can describe how white the sand is or how clear the water is here. When the waves come into shore it looks like rolling glass. The most idyllic, paradise-like beach you could ever wish to spend days sun bathing on the shore and floating in the sea on. Rock up and pick a spot.

We were lucky enough to spend New Year’s Eve on this little blob of paradise. Typhoon Ursula had just wrecked havoc about the place, and as a result we had no hot water or air conditioning for the duration of our stay, but even with that it was still absolutely worth the visit. If you’re planning on spending New Year here you just need to head to the beach and join in the party!

Sleep: Cool Stay Inn- good location, basic rooms. We had no air con or hot water, but that was thanks to typhoon Ursula, and they would both usually be available.

Eat:

Nonies- Great veggie and vegan options. Slow service but tasty feel-good food.

Super magic burgers- Only 2 veggie options and pretty pricey, but at least they were tasty.

Lemoni Italian restaurant-Lots of tasty fresh options with cake to die for.

Drink:

Uptown Boracay- We spent the build-up to midnight here on New Years Eve and they had good live music and a fire dancer. They then set a GIANT sparkler alight and waggled it around the beach. Happy New Year.

Cha cha’s beach cafe- We partied our way into the New Year here. On the beach, a good DJ and not outrageously priced drinks with no entrance fee. Plus, when one of the speakers blew towards the end of the night, the locals got out the bongo drums and saved the day. Excellent.

Panglao:

We arrived in Bohol having caught the ferry from Cebu which goes several times a day. Panglao is connected to Bohol via a bridge. Most people choose to stay on Panglao because of the beaches and chilled backpacker vibe. Having driven through Tagbilaran in Bohol (where there is other accommodation) we’re definitely glad we stayed on Panglao.

This is the bit where it all went downhill somewhat. After being pretty ill for 48hrs despite not eating, a pharmacist sent me to the hospital in Tagbilaran where I was diagnosed with 2 parasites, which I’d probably contracted from eggs or salad. I was prescribed strong medication and spent the next week feeling like someone was scrubbing my insides out with bleach and a Brillo pad. Needless to say, it was not fun.

Alona Beach

If you’re staying on Panglao, Alona Beach is the place to be. Restaurants, bars and a nice stretch of white sand and palm trees. The water is warm and clear, but you can’t go too far out because of the monumental amounts of seaweed pretty close to shore. Lovely for a afternoon of chilling.

Chocolate Hills

We hopped in a minivan to visit these from Panglao, they’re a bit of a trip- an hour and a half drive away- but if you combine them with the tarsiers (see below!) it’s a worthwhile journey. Named the ‘Chocolate Hills’ because of their brown dome-like appearance, we actually saw them whilst they were green, so it was more of a Matcha Hills situation. It’s a bizarre sight- all those domes randomly popping up on an otherwise flat landscape- and pretty cool to see. But I wouldn’t make the trip especially- I mean they are just hills at the end of the day.

Tarsier Conservation Centre

We visited these hairy little potatoes (Google ‘Tarsier’ and tell me I’m wrong), after the chocolate hills (and after Ryan had changed our exploding tyre because our minivan driver really didn’t have the foggiest). There’s a small entry fee, and then you silently walk around a little forested area where staff are on hand to make sure everyone’s quiet, that you’ve turned the flash off of your phones, and thankfully to point out these sleepy little primates, because my word are they tiny. Like hairy little aliens gripped onto a branch snoozing the day away (they’re nocturnal, not just lazy) I’m so glad I managed to leave my sick bed long enough to see them. Good grief they’re cute. If you’re into wildlife, and especially primates, definitely worth a visit. So. Cute. Did I mention how cute they are?

Sleep: OYO 422 Villa Emilia Pension House- Pretty big rooms with hot water and air con, helpful staff and only a short tricycle from Alona Beach.

Eat: Shaka- Veggie food and smoothie bowls of dreams.

Thai Basil- Best Thai food we’ve had outside of Thailand on this trip.

Drink: Not even on my radar, too busy losing my stomach contents and wailing in pain. Soz. You’re lucky there’s even any writing in this section.

Siquijor:

We caught the ferry from Bohol to Siquijor- be careful, there’s only one ferry a day, so don’t miss it like we did!

Paliton Beach

There’s several sections to this beach, all accessible by walking between the rocks on the shore. Chilled and quiet with warm clear waters, white sand, palm trees a plenty and coconuts at the ready, it’s the loveliest place to chill for the day, and then stay for the sunset.

Grab a moped

Siquijor is a beautiful island. It’s pretty untouched and pretty quiet, so you can grab a moped and explore the island hopping from beach to beach under blue skies and along palm-lined roads. Lovely.

Apo Island snorkelling

We booked this through a local dive centre and it included snorkel, fins, a snorkelling guide and lunch. Apo Island is about an hours sail from the mainland and is famed for its turtles because it’s actually a protected marine sanctuary. We had 2 snorkelling spots and both times we saw several turtles. You really don’t need to pay the extra to dive because the water is shallow enough for you to be able to observe the turtles do their thing pretty closely, but the water isn’t crowded with people so you’re not in the way of the turtles either- the perfect balance. The reef is pretty cool there too- we saw plenty of fish, lots of sea cucumbers, starfish and a sea snake. But the turtles were the absolute highlight. So chilled. So big. So beautiful. I could’ve honestly stayed in there and watched them all day. There’s so many swimming around that you can even see them from the boat too, bobbing up to catch a breath before diving back down. The absolute best way to end our time in the Philippines.

Sleep: Hanna’s Place- lovely little bungalows within walking distance to food and the beach. Can be noisy because of the road our front though.

Eat:

Dulce Amore- We virtually lived here. Run by an Italian couple, they make outrageously good pizza and pasta.

Monkey Business- Some good veggie options, but a bit average.

Island Vibes- Don’t bother, I’ve never seen so much salt on a meal.

See-Kee-hor- Lovely little spot by the beach. Small menu, but everything on it is tasty and they cook right in front of you.

Drink: Not even on my radar, too busy losing my stomach contents and wailing in pain. Soz. Again. Repeat offender.

And just like that our Filipino adventure is over. 5 weeks, 14 islands, 2 parasites, and countless logistical nightmares later; Philippines, WE OUT. The most beautiful country, but my word they made us work for it. Thanks for the journey you little cluster of testing paradise.

Next stop: New Zealand!